Complete Guide: Tips & Guide to Photographing the Milky Way

By Widhibek
Originally published March 8, 2021 | Fully translated and adapted for NightSkyIndonesia.com

Almost every day on social media, we encounter landscape photos with the Milky Way in the background—some looking realistic, others appearing like clever composites. That’s perfectly fine; it’s art after all. But for me, there’s greater satisfaction in capturing the Milky Way with my own camera rather than just overlaying someone else’s image from who knows where. Actually, photographing the Milky Way isn’t difficult at all. I guarantee that after reading this complete article, you’ll be able to photograph the Milky Way with your own camera.

Currently, it seems nearly every landscape photographer has tried capturing night sky landscapes. Night photography has become a mainstream field, very different from when I first learned to photograph the Milky Way back in 2010.

What is the Milky Way? [Galaksi Bima Sakti]

![Milky Way over Rinca]

The Milky Way, known in Indonesian as Galaksi Bima Sakti, is the galaxy where our solar system and Earth are located. It’s estimated to contain over 400 billion stars. In Indonesia, it’s called Galaksi Bima Sakti referring to one of the Pandawa figures from wayang shadow puppetry, Bima. Ancient Javanese people saw the dense star arrangement resembling the figure Bima battling a dragon serpent.

When Can You See the Milky Way?

Actually, the Milky Way is always there, but the challenge is that it only becomes visible under the right place, time, and conditions.

Nighttime Conditions
Even during the day, the Milky Way exists, but the bright sunlight makes stars and the Milky Way invisible.

Dark Locations with Minimal Light Pollution
Urban lights create air and light pollution, making it difficult to see the Milky Way in cities.

Clear Skies, No Clouds
Clouds and overcast conditions also affect whether we can see the Milky Way.

Viewing Direction and Position
The Milky Way rises and sets in the southern sky. For precision, we can use apps like Stellarium or PhotoPills on our phones to confirm its location.

Optimal Timing
The Milky Way’s core isn’t visible at all times. During certain months, the core is only above the horizon during daytime.

What Do We Photograph from the Milky Way Galaxy?

![Milky Way Core]

The most interesting part of the Milky Way is its bright core—the brightest section of Galaksi Bima Sakti. We can see this core with the naked eye as a thin white haze stretching from south to north https://www.landscape-indonesia.com/milky-way-dilihat-mata-biasa/. This is the part most commonly hunted as a photo subject.

Essential Equipment for Photographing the Milky Way

Camera

The camera depends on our needs. Nearly all modern cameras can photograph the Milky Way, but there are requirements for getting good results.

![Camera and Lens Setup]

Basic Camera Requirements:

Manual Settings: Camera with manual controls for aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.
Shutter Speed Above 10 Seconds: Some pocket cameras are limited to 1 second. In low light conditions, we need sufficiently slow speeds for proper exposure.
ISO Above 1600: In dark conditions without light, high ISO helps shorten exposure time without stars appearing to move.
Manual Focus Capability: Manual focus allows more accurate focusing. In low light, autofocus struggles to lock focus properly.

Professional Camera Advantages:

Low Noise at High ISO: Better sensors are less sensitive to noise at high ISO, producing cleaner images and reducing editing time for noise reduction.
Full Frame Sensors: Compared to APS-C, full-frame handles noise better, allowing higher ISO usage. They also offer higher dynamic range and reduce sensor heat.

![Milky Way from Resort Front]

Lenses

For pocket cameras, the lens is fixed and can’t be changed. But DSLR and mirrorless cameras allow lens changes based on needs. Entry-level cameras usually come with a kit lens 18-55mm at f/3.5. Professionals typically own multiple lenses. For photography, the lens is the most important component alongside the camera body. My advice: invest in quality lenses suited to your photography field.

Kit Lens (18-55mm)

Advantages: Usually included with camera purchase—no extra cost.
Disadvantages:
- On non-full-frame bodies, 18mm equals 27-28mm equivalent. Longer focal length means shorter time before stars appear to move.
- Limited composition—usually captures only the Milky Way core.
- f/3.5 aperture forces high ISO, causing noise.

Conclusion: Kit lens 18-55mm can be used for Milky Way but isn’t ideal.

Wide-Angle Lenses (under 24mm full-frame) and Ultra Wide-Angle
Lenses below 24mm (full-frame) are called wide-angle lenses. Milky Way photographers typically use 14mm or 16mm focal lengths.

Advantages:
- Wide field of view captures broader Milky Way stretches from horizon to core.
- Allows creative foreground composition with nature elements in one frame.
- Greater depth of field for easier front-to-back focus.
- Essential for landscape photographers, so good long-term investment beyond night photography.
Disadvantages:
- Additional cost compared to kit lenses.
- Careful composition needed to avoid unwanted objects or lights.

Fast Lenses (Large Aperture f/1.4–f/2.8)
Perfect choice for night photography enthusiasts.

Advantages:
- Wide aperture (low f-number) lets in more light, shortening exposure time—crucial for night shooting.
- Shorter shutter speeds reduce star trail movement.
Disadvantages: Usually more expensive than standard aperture lenses.

Manual Focus Lenses
Fortunately for night photography, we rely heavily on manual focus, making these lenses suitable for Milky Way.

Advantages:
- Cheaper than autofocus equivalents.
- Old manual lenses can be adapted with converters.
Disadvantages: No autofocus, challenging for other situations needing quick focus.

Fish-Eye Lenses
Specialty lenses producing unique curved images. Fish-eye lenses for Milky Way capture wide arcs, even half-circle stretches from southeast to southwest.

Advantages:
- Ultra-wide composition for Milky Way curves.
- Can create 360° panoramas.
Disadvantages:
- Usually f/3.5 aperture requires high ISO, causing excessive noise.
- Specialized use only.

![Milky Way at Drini Beach]

So Which Lens is Recommended for Milky Way Photography?

Since we need wide-angle, large aperture, and no autofocus requirement, here are excellent options:

Samyang / Rokinon Lenses
This brand offers many attractive manual lenses at budget prices with good quality. Available mounts for Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fuji. I personally use several Samyang lenses for Milky Way hunts.

Samyang 14mm f/2.8: Ultra-wide 14mm (full-frame) with f/2.8 aperture—my go-to for Milky Way. Manual focus only but performs excellently.
Samyang 24mm f/1.4: Popular among night photographers. f/1.4 allows shorter exposures. Often used for multiple frames stitched into Milky Way panoramas to overcome field of view limitations.
Samyang 35mm f/1.4: Less ideal for full Milky Way due to tighter angle, but perfect for core and nebulae. Note: 35mm requires shorter shutter speeds, but f/1.4 captures light quickly.

Canon / Nikon / Sony / Fuji / Sigma / Tamron / Tokina Lenses
Brand lenses offer proven quality and durable materials. Fewer manual focus options, usually higher priced than third-party. Worth collecting for investment and versatile photography.

Typical Focal Lengths for Milky Way:

Full-frame: 8, 10, 14mm range. Commonly used: 16-35mm lenses. Apertures f/2.8–f/4.
APS-C/Mirrorless: 10-22mm wide-angle due to crop factor. Usually f/3.5 aperture.

Tripod

For Milky Way photography, we use slow speeds from 10-30 seconds or longer. Tripod requirements:

Sturdy: Outdoor locations expose us to unpredictable wind. Need solid tripod that won’t shake or tip.
Manageable Weight: For hiking locations without transport, too heavy discourages carrying. Lighter = more frequent use.
Price Consideration: Ranges from hundreds of thousands to millions IDR. Quality landscape tripods are long-term investments—better to spend more on durable models used frequently vs. cheap ones that fail.
Material: Carbon fiber offers strength and light weight, though more expensive than aluminum.

Tripod Stability Tips:

Use center hook to hang weighted bags/plastic.
Avoid extending center column fully to maintain balance.

Shutter Release / Intervalometer

Minimizes vibration for sharp images. Available as wired, infrared, or Bluetooth. Smartphone apps now offer shutter control.

For serious work, intervalometers add timing: set intervals, shot count, delay. Enables exposures >30 seconds (beyond camera’s 30s/Bulb limit). Many newer cameras include built-in intervalometers.

Batteries

Milky Way hunts can last hours—even full nights in July-August. I bring 4+ batteries. Pre-hunt routine: fully charge everything. Double-check batteries are in camera and spares in bag. Includes headlamp, LED, phone, tablet batteries.

USB-rechargeable cameras + powerbank are ideal. For extended shoots without power, consider solar panels.

![Milky Way from Merbabu Pos 3]

Anti-Dew Equipment

Night shooting at mountains/beaches risks lens fogging, ruining frames. I’ve experienced dozens of unusable shots from dew.

Lens Hood: Slows dew formation; also blocks flare and protects front element.
Small USB Fan: Airflow reduces condensation. Powerbank-compatible.
Dew Heater: Velcro bands with heating elements. Choose USB-powered models.

Lighting Equipment

Headlamp: More practical than handheld flashlights—frees hands. Choose red light mode to preserve night vision. Also lights foregrounds.

Flash / LED: For wider foregrounds or Milky Way portraits in single shots. Use wireless remote for flexible positioning and lighting control vs. on-camera flash.

Additional Gear

Depending on location: warm clothes, hats, gloves for mountains. Don’t forget snacks and hot drinks for long night vigils.

![At Bukit Salib, Maumere]

Research and Planning

“Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe.” – Abraham Lincoln

Planning is crucial for Milky Way photography. Research locations, optimal times, foreground elements, weather, Milky Way position, moon phase, and more. Mature planning makes fieldwork easier. Don’t arrive in darkness confused or find the Milky Way invisible.

![Milky Way Photography Apps]

Planning Support Apps

Stellarium
My first app when learning Milky Way photography. Available as website, desktop software, and mobile app. Set location, determine optimal hunting time. Simulates Milky Way positions perfectly.

PhotoPills
Essential Android/iPhone app for accurate planning. So feature-rich I haven’t explored everything. Detailed website documentation + 256-page ebook available. Planner shows Milky Way core rise/set times with azimuth/elevation by location/date. Planning separate PhotoPills article coming.

![PhotoPills Planner]

Photographer’s Ephemeris (TPE)
Previously used for sunrise/sunset planning. Recent iOS updates added Milky Way core planning. Android version pending update since Jan 2021.

Also shows low light pollution areas.

Google Maps
Pinpoint coordinates for unfamiliar locations. Input into Stellarium. Check distance from home, transport, open areas for unobstructed skies.

Simple Moon Phase
Lightweight app for moon phase checks to avoid full moon dates.

![Milky Way Stretch]

Planning Milky Way Shoot Locations

Urban living makes starry Milky Way skies difficult. Air/light pollution forces travel outside cities. Minimal/no light pollution essential. Head to mountains, rural villages, beaches, or remote areas.

Determining Optimal Timing

Core Visibility: Late February to late October.

February–May: After midnight to dawn.
June–August: Sunset to sunrise.
September–October: Sunset to midnight.

Use Stellarium/PhotoPills for precision.

![Moon Phase App]

Moon Phase
Ideal: new moon for darkest skies. Few days before/after also optimal. Use Simple Moon Phase or PhotoPills Moon Calendar.

Weather Forecast
Check BMKG website or AccuWeather apps for clear skies vs. heavy rain.

![Milky Way at Bukit Gancik]

Photo References
After setting time/location, search “Location + Milky Way” on Google. Study liked photos: composition, technique, required lens. Compare same-location shots. Ask: “How can I improve this?”

Contact Local Photographers
Reach out to those who’ve shot there. Discuss highlights, consider group hunts. Expands photography friendships.

“Why should I feel lonely? Is not our planet in the Milky Way?” – Henry David Thoreau

![Camping Under Milky Way]

Time to Hunt the Milky Way

Before Heading to Location

Ensure all gear is packed. Double-check batteries/memory cards installed. Organize for easy field access. I’ve arrived realizing I forgot memory cards or batteries weren’t seated due to rush.

Arrive Before Dark

For new locations, arrive daytime to scout tripod spots, use Stellarium/PhotoPills for Milky Way positioning, identify foregrounds, and alternative positions for flexibility.

Gear Preparation

Mount camera on tripod. Secure against wind with weights. Test shot confirms memory card/battery.

Use RAW Format
Preserves more data than compressed JPEG. Allows white balance adjustments in editing.

Turn OFF Lens Stabilizer
On tripod, stabilizer can cause blur mistaking stability for shake.

Focus Settings
Find farthest reference point. For front-to-back sharpness, use hyperfocal technique.

Check LCD Post-Shot
Verify composition/focus. Camera settings adjusted after dark.

Wait for Nightfall

![Heading to Merapi]

Battle Time: Shooting Settings

Set camera to Manual with starting settings (adjust in field):

Widest Aperture (lens dependent: f/1.4–f/4)
ISO 1600–6400
Shutter 15–30 seconds
White Balance 3000–4000K
RAW Format

Check LCD results (zoom for detail):

Is composition correct?
Any distracting elements?
Focus sharp?
Stars pinpoint or trailing?
Histogram: under/over exposed?

Adjust: raise ISO if too dark, shorten shutter if star trails. Once perfect, shoot multiple frames (20-50+) for editing stacks or move positions.

I typically shoot dozens of frames per spot before seeking new compositions.

How to Focus at Night

Early Milky Way learning, focusing was challenging. Autofocus failed (“ngak ngik nguk”). Some suggested max focus then slight reverse or “infinity” mark—but often inaccurate.

![Nebula in Milky Way Core]

After Years of Night Photography, My Methods:

Daytime Focusing
Easiest: manually focus to infinity using live view zoom. Lock with gaffer tape (not regular tape—leaves no residue). For late arrivals:

Bright Star Focusing
Starlight suffices. Live view zoom: smaller round stars = sharper focus; spreading = out of focus.

Hyperfocal Technique
Optimal front-to-back sharpness distance. Use PhotoPills calculator: input aperture/focal length (e.g., 2.32m). Measure with objects or light at night. Slightly overestimate ensures distant stars/Milky Way sharpness.

![Segara Anak Shoreline]

Composition

Composition separates ordinary from captivating photos. See detailed composition article.

Key Milky Way Composition Techniques:

Focal point/main subject
Rule of Thirds
Symmetry
Leading lines drawing eyes into frame
Interesting foreground
Frame subjects within frame
Add scale (people/objects)

![Milky Way over Merapi]

Rule of 500

Slow shutters make stars trail due to Earth’s rotation, affected by focal length/shutter speed. Longer focal length = quicker trails.

Rule of 500: Max shutter = 500 ÷ (focal length × crop factor)

Example: 18-55mm at 18mm on Canon 60D (1.5x crop): 500 ÷ (18 × 1.5) = 18s. Use 15s for safety.

Milky Way editing covered in next article…

![Hunting Milky Way in Wonogiri]

FAQs

Should I use Long Exposure Noise Reduction?
Reduces noise in long exposures by taking dark frame. Disadvantage: doubles processing time. Turn OFF for maximum shots or star trails—use stacking instead.

How to compose when arriving after dark?
Light tripod area safely. Use max ISO for quick preview composition (short exposure vs. 30s low ISO). Once set, return to proper low ISO/shutter.

Why do my stars trail?
See Rule of 500 section.

Why not use JPEG for night shots?
JPEG is compressed by sensor, losing detail. RAW preserves maximum data for editing flexibility.

“But I can’t edit photos!”
Hmmm… can’t or won’t? 🙂

Questions? Comment below—we’ll update with Q&A. Note: Landscape Indonesia published Photographing the Milky Way book. Anyone collected it?

![Milky Way Book Cover]

NightSkyIndonesia.com Additions:

Join our Discord for Bali Milky Way hunts and gear trading.
Check light pollution maps for Indonesia spots.
Beginner workshops coming soon!

Ready to hunt Indonesia’s night skies?